Beziers Cathedral

Or to give Beziers' gothic cathedral its full name - Cathédrale Saint-Nazaire-et-Saint-Celse de Béziers - was built from the 13th to 15th centuries on the remains of an older romanesque church that was destroyed during the massacre of Beziers by the Albigensian Crusaders on 22nd July 1209.

The cathedral and old part of the town are situated on a high point overlooking the Orb river and the cathedral can be seen from far away.

Raimond Roger Trencavel (below) was viscount of Beziers and Carcassonne and lived at the same time as the crusade against the Cathars. When the Albigensian crusade was on its way towards Beziers, Albi and Carcassonne with 10,000 men, Raimond Roger tried to do a deal with the crusaders, but they refused to meet with him. He fled to the fortified city of Carcassonne which was subsequently surrounded and its drinking water cut off. When Carcassonne surrendered, the people were forced to leave but after receiving safe passage in order to negotiate the surrender, Raimond Roger was then captured and thrown into a dungeon, where he eventually died.

Beziers, however, didn't get off so lightly. The cathedral was destroyed and the thousands of townsfolk were massacred.

The beautiful organ pipes and stained glass circular window, above and below.

The cloister, above and below, has apparently never been finished due to a lack of funding. It looks OK to me!

I really wanted to go up the 149 steps to the roof and my brother came with me. It was all via circular staircase with a break at mid level where there is a balcony inside the cathedral. It got a bit dodgy when meeting people coming down! Keith didn’t want to come but given his size he would have found it pretty tight in there. It was fairly tough and most people were puffing and panting and taking breathers, like me!

We didn’t go all the way to the very top (it was barred off) but came out where there was a small walkway on all four sides of the tower. On this sunny day the views were amazing.

I was using my phone and am surprised my photos came out so well as it was literally point and shoot as I couldn’t see anything on the screen!

Looking down to the Orb river and the old bridge dating from the 12th century on the right, which is not used for vehicles.

Looking inland towards the Montagne Noir. I could actually see the sea from up here.

My brother showing how narrow it was in most places up there!

Once down we walked around to this garden which had a lovely view and where we could even feel some warmth from the sun, despite the temp being about 11C. The trees are all citrus trees but without any fruit on. It was a lovely place to just sit and chill for a bit.

Next Xmas we plan to visit Perpignan in neighbouring Pyrenees-Orientales department, then we will have finally been to all the main towns around here. 😄

Beziers at Christmas

We visited Beziers after Christmas for the first time. This is one of the main towns in the Herault department, which neighbours our department, Aude. It's a bit bigger than Narbonne where we went last Xmas, and we were lucky with the weather, although this day wasn't eat outside weather!

Don't be tricked by the snow though - it's all fake! As we were wandering around the town we came to this big open square which was near the restaurant that we were heading for. I absolutely loved these decorations - they really went to town here. I bet it looks great lit up at night as well, but with the blue sky, it looks amazing!

I just loved all these domes filled with different snowy winter scenes.

Here's Santa and his reindeer, and they are galloping/flying down a rill (that's shallow water flowing in the middle there).

The fountains were permanent but fun to watch too as they changed every few seconds.

A reflection of all three of us!

Beziers is famous for its Trompe l'Oeil decorations on the walls. That means 'trick of the eye' and some are truly amazing with the 3D effect (particularly the one below this, as I thought the top balcony was real!). We only came across two of them, but I believe you can get a map of their locations from the tourist office.

Isn't it amazing - all those shadows painted on which look real, and to paint the balcony railings too - wow! Even the door at ground level is painted.

Later in the day we came across this cute petting zoo. I can't resist things like this and there were some teeny tiny goats that were so cute, but it was hard to get close as there were lots of people in that enclosure - and fluffy legged chickens in there too!

We then visited the cathedral but I will put those pictures in another post.

Etang de Bagnas and Lesser Kestrels nesting at St Pons de Mauchiens

We are going back to the end of June now for the last outing with Birding Languedoc of their Spring 2021 season. We felt it went out with a bang! We have really enjoyed our trips with them, both last year and this, and have seen innumerable lifers (not just lifer birds!), other wildlife galore and wildflowers to die for. We feel very lucky indeed to have moved here coinciding with them starting to run day trips for the people living here (as well as their more normal birding holidays). For them, with the pandemic arriving, it has been a godsend as it has helped them with a bit of, I'm sure, much needed income!

We started in the morning with a private visit to Etang de Bagnas, a reserve which normally has no public access, but allows accompanied visits. The lake entrance is locked off with a gate, so the public can only stop at the parking and view the lake from this one place. The reserve is one and a half hours from home using the motorway, near the resort town of Agde and close to the Etang de Thau, which runs from Marseillan at one end to the port of Sete at the other.

First we were given a short talk on the history of the reserve by our lovely guide, who I think was enjoying practising her rusty English, with some French thrown in for good measure, which most of us understood. This reserve is fairly surrounded by built up areas and campsites between the reserve and the beach (grey areas on above map), so thankfully this important wetland (dark green and blue areas on map) has not been able to be developed on. We then set off to the lake and walked along one side of it with stops along the way to see what we could see.

What at first seemed like only dozens of coots in fact turned out to be huge numbers of bird life. I know nothing about terns (apart from recognising that a bird is a tern 😀) but in fact there were five different species here! I think I saw three of them; they were moving around so fast it was hard to know which was which, especially with the other birds in the sky! We also had not only Common Swifts but Pallid Swifts swooping about overhead. We saw Glossy Ibis flying overhead, and a number of Purple Herons flew past us which I was really chuffed about as I've only ever seen a few of them, many years ago. 

There were Mute Swans (Cygnus olor) and cygnets and a female Pochard (Aythya ferina) with five ducklings, which were so cute to watch! (also in the photo above)

On an island which has a heronry there was a mix of Grey Heron, Great White and Little Egrets and also a juvenile Cattle Egret (on the left of the photo with a fluffy chestnut hairdo!) and a flamboyance of Flamingos (yes really! It's the collective noun which I've only just learned) standing in the water at the edge of it.

Every now and again a Purple Gallinule/Purple Swamphen would appear at the edge of the reeds, which was exciting to see (even though we have seen dozens of them at one place in Spain, and a lot closer up). Well, it was a first for us in France. Even better, a juvenile appeared behind the parent at one point!

I noticed a small blue damselfly so managed to get a few pictures which actually turned out a lot better than I thought they were going to, as my camera was refusing to focus on something so small (it drives me nuts when the SX50 does that). Once home though, I discovered it was a species I had never seen before, the Small Red-eyed Damselfly (Erythromma viridulum)!

Someone else spotted an amazing caterpillar, another lifer for me! This was a Spurge Hawkmoth (Hyles euphorbiae) caterpillar, and although it was already huge, I think it had one more moult to go as the pictures online show it has much more bright red colouring. Here it is eating the stem of what looks like a drying out/dying Euphorbia (commonly called Spurge).

We then went on to the Parc Departementale de Bessilles for our picnic lunch and had a walk around. Our birding guide Karline, who is amazing at spotting Ocellated Lizards, spotted this juvenile peeking out of hole in a dead tree!

After lunch we headed to St Pons de Mauchiens where there is a reintroduced colony of Lesser Kestrels (Falco naumanni) nesting in the roof tiles of the village buildings. This is one of the old villages built on a small hill with a church at the top, 

Credit: Fagairolles 34, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

From our arrival at the car park to our walk just to the lower town we were already seeing lots of Lesser Kestrels! Luckily for us, they seemed to enjoy perching on gutters and TV aerials with their prey, just sitting around, before they were off to feed their babies. These next photos were taken of a male with a butterfly chrysalis in the lower part of the town.

The most obvious difference between the Lesser Kestrel and the Common Kestrel is the lack of spots/markings on the back of the male Lesser, plus he has grey patches on his wings. Females and juveniles are quite similar, though to help with ID, the two species make different sounds and the Lesser is smaller than the Common.

There was also a male Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia) on one of the roofs.

We then walked through the village up towards the church at the top of the hill. 

Credit: Keith Allen

We came to a little park area where we could look out over the roofs and the magnificent views beyond, and there was an orientation board naming all the mountains, hills and villages that we could see from there. The Lesser Kestrels were certainly giving us a wonderful display of flying, and posing with their prey. Then suddenly they would disappear under a roof tile to their nests. I did wonder how on earth they could fit under there and just how much space there would be for the nest and growing babies, but there obviously is! Karline, our birding guide, said that if you are there a few weeks later the youngsters come out from the nests and run about on the roofs before they start to fly! We will have to come back and see that next year. 

Male with a cicada:

Another male with unknown grub. We also saw one with a mouse, which it started to eat on the wing!

Female with insect - you can see how easy it is to tell the males from the females.

Credit: Keith Allen

This is where we were viewing the birds from:

The fabulous view beyond the roofs - here we are looking inland to the Haut Languedoc range of mountains:

The Lesser Kestrels were disappearing into their nests under the edge of these roof tiles!

Way off in the distance a Short-toed Snake Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) was spotted - with a snake! Keith managed to get a very distant shot of it, and Philippa from Birding Languedoc was just watching it through her scope when the Eagle "sucked the snake up like it was spaghetti"!! 😄

Credit: Keith Allen

One final photo - behind where we were standing watching the birds was this amazing wall - build around huge rocks. If you look closely (click on photo) you can see a couple of tiny windows, one of which has been filled in, so I don't know what is behind, possibly a basement area of the church. It's been patched up and mortared over the years/centuries and is so interesting when you just look at the structure of the building. Shame about the crowd control barrier in the scene but I imagine that's to stop people parking there. 

A full report of this trip with photos is available to read on the Birding Languedoc website, along with a list of species seen (and heard) during the day here. Amazingly it totalled 45 species, not that I saw them all, or some were just a glimpse!