I mentioned the crush to get on the bus in the previous post, but I didn't tell you about the fun and games involved in driving a full sized bus up these narrow winding mountain roads. One of our buses was driven by a woman who liked to parp her horn going around every corner (probably a sensible thing to do) and there were times when we would meet a car coming towards us and there would be some interesting maneouvres to get past.
At the bus station in Amalfi the drivers really showed their incredible skill. They would back the buses into their parking slot amidst hundreds of people all rushing up trying to get near the doors to get on the bus, cars trying to drive past and just general tourists milling about.
On our first trip in to Amalfi, we had to get off the bus about a kilometre from the town as the bus couldn't get past something - we were not sure what that was about but it looked like some roadworks. As it happened this was great as we got to see the town from a different vista and take more photos!
I didn't bother taking my heavy camera and just took photos with my phone.
The jetty for the ferries up ahead. At times the queue was the length of the jetty. I would have loved to go to Positano by ferry, but it was in the other direction, past where we were staying. But we couldn't get there any other way (as far as I could figure) than to go all the way to Amalfi, then back again. Just too much hassle, sadly.
The famous Amalfi lemons! (Or are they the famous Sorrento lemons? They actually look more like their oval shape). They are huge, aren't they? Compare them to the basket of oranges!
The Duomo, or cathedral, of Amalfi, Sant'Andrea. Building began in the 9th and 10th centuries, but it has changed over the centuries using many different styles and now sports a Norman-Arab-Byzantine facade, after part of the previous facade collapsed in 1861.
Looking back down from the top of the steps at Piazza del Duomo.
Before entering the cathedral we walked through the Cloister of Paradise, built in 1266 in the Arab-Norman style. I must say I have never heard of this architectural style but apparently the Norman bit is actually Romanesque, so it's a fusion of Arab, Byzantine and Romanesque, which is known as Norman in Britain.
When we entered the church, it was quite a surprise. It is simply breathtaking! I read that it is C18th Baroque style but with elements of many other styles.
I think this might be the most ornate Italian church we have ever been inside.
Back outside and we indulged in a little window shopping.
Funny! 😁
I have to say, not for me. 😂😁😂 Though very much photo worthy!
Wandering back to the seafront there was a beautiful old ship which sailed off somewhere whilst we were there. 'My' boat is the one on the left, however. It's about the right size for me, I reckon. 😁
Looking back at the town which is so scenic with the mountains towering above it.
More wanderings back in the direction of the ferry jetty, we stopped to have a look at this little marina area. There was a private beach here (out of view) with plenty of people on it, although I wouldn't fancy swimming where so many boats were moored up.
Now this is another boat that caught my eye. It's not as big as my ideal 'gin palace' but it would do at a pinch. ;-)
We then wandered back to the bus stop area to get our bus home. It was all a bit confusing and we waited around for when a bus put the name of San Lazzaro on the front of the bus. However when our bus arrived, we couldn't get on as too many people were in front of us.
A few minutes later a bus pulled up across the road and lots of people rushed towards it. I got on and asked if it was going to San Lazzaro, but they told me 'Bomerano' which of course didn't make any sense. Amazingly the drivers all seemed to speak English so said this bus was going to an area not that far from San Lazzaro, so we decided to get on it rather than wait another hour for our proper bus.
When we got off at Bomerano, we realised that we would still have to wait another hour for the next San Lazzaro bus. Some Italian people phoned someone who came to pick them up. Then some young guys hitched a ride. Some time later a taxi was going past and some of the other people at the bus stop hailed it and got in. Left at the bus stop were just K and me, and another couple. Resigned to wait another 20 minutes, suddenly a taxi appeared so I rushed out and hailed it. We negotiated a price and offered to share with the other couple, who were going to San Lazzaro too. In fact it was only about a ten minute ride!
The owner of the camp site was out the front when we arrived, and being a very friendly soul, we told him about our fun and games. He said that the young guys were staying at the camp site too, and so were the other people who took the first taxi. And it turned out it was the same taxi who dropped them off, then came back in the hope of getting more customers, i.e. us!
So you see why after the bus shenanigans the following day, we had totally had enough and headed north towards Umbria and Tuscany!
After Pompeii we headed to the famous Amalfi coast, which is only about an hour from Pompeii and around a headland from Sorrento. However, it turns out that you can't drive a motorhome on the corniche road, which when you go there you realise why - it's much too narrow, windy and busy. Even cars are limited to every other day according to their reg. number. So there was nothing for it but to stay at a campsite up in the hills, and get a bus in to Amalfi.
We stayed in a village called San Lazzaro, which was high up in the hills overlooking the coast. The road was a dead end and ended up with these fantastic views up the coast, here looking in the direction of Amalfi and Salerno, which are out of view.
Looking straight down - the sea is not so far as the crow flies. We had dinner at a restaurant near here with a large terrace with these views (not that we could see, it was dark!).
The next day we visited Amalfi, but I will do that in the next post as I have many photos. The following day we visited Ravello, which this post is about.
It took an hour to get to Amalfi from San Lazzaro and after much winding about down the mountainside we came out onto the corniche road, which was very scenic. We then had to get another bus to Ravello, which was another half an hour ride up the mountainside again! The views from where we got off the bus were worth it though. Here we are looking towards Maiori, in the opposite direction from Amalfi.
Ravello is only a little place so it didn't take long to wander around. We had a pizza on a terrace overlooking the sea (yes, there are lots of restaurants like that around here!)
Above and below, the Duomo (cathedral) of Ravello and the old tower on the right is the Torre Maggiore, a part of the Villa Rufolo. It dates back to the 13th century.
Typical souvenir shops include a lot of lemon related paraphenalia - Amalfi lemons and the slightly different Sorrento lemons have been grown in this area for centuries.
After lunch we visited the Villa Rufolo which is next door to the cathedral. The villa was empty which was disappointing as the only thing of interest were beautiful patterned tiled floors (I should have taken a photo) but it was really about the outside and the views to die for.
Part of the villa and our shadows at the bottom! This is part of a Moorish cloister.
It would be nice to have a garden with a view like this!
We were lucky to have the perfect weather which really brought out the blue of the sea. It was far less humid on this side of the headland - I think the humidity around Naples is caused by the smog. Who knows.
And back out into the village - they sell some interesting things here! 😀
The day was spoiled somewhat by the crush for the bus from Amalfi back to San Lazzaro and missing the first bus as we were nowhere near the bus doors when it stopped, so no chance to get on. We waited an hour for the next one, which luckily pulled up right where we were standing. Again there was a huge crush to get on but this time we were determined so we elbowed our way on, and got seats!
It was great to stay here for a few days but we wouldn't have wanted to go through that experience again, having already had a hassle the day before getting back from Amalfi which I'll tell you about in the next post. Really there are just far too many people for the amount of buses. Probably the best thing to do is to visit later in the afternoon, have dinner out then get a later bus back. But you don't know until you know.
I'm not sure where this picture was taken - it might have been in the House of the Vettii actually, but it's worth sharing no matter where it was located!
This is likely to be another bakery, with the oven at the back and millstones there on the left.
House of Leda
This house is so named due to a fresco (below) discovered of 'Leda and the Swan'; Leda being the famous queen of Sparta and Zeus who had been transformed into a swan. Click on the photo to see it larger and sharper.
On a personal note, those columns of florals, especially the one in the foreground right is a reminder of how we have not changed a lot in 2000 years - I know it's not in fashion right now but who remembers floral stencils around doorways and across the tops of walls some 30 odd years ago? 😁
We did have a photo of Priapus, the god of fertility, and his unfeasibly large phallus after all (fans of Viz comic from the 80s/90s will understand that joke reference!). I had read that this house also had a fresco of him weighing his overly large penis on a weighing scale. Click on the photo to view larger, if you wish! 😀
House of Sirico
This was the house of Publius Vedius Sirico, known due to the discovery of a bronze ring seal bearing his name, along with other things which confirmed he was an important man in political and commercial life in Pompeii.
The house was originally two that over time were made into one dwelling, and there were two courtyards with basins in the centre as seen in the two photos below.
Casts of bodies found in this house
The people who died at Pompeii were not subjected to such intense heat as at Herculaneum, and they died sometimes with their clothes intact. They were covered in ash and pumice, which hardened to stone over time and when the area was excavated, the space where the body once was left an imprint in the rock. Impressions of the bodies have been made by putting liquid plaster inside the rock cavity then chipping off the rock, leaving the outline of the people who died. Some still have their clothing visible in the plaster impression. As they wore mostly woollen clothing, it doesn't burn easily. Over 1,000 victims have been found at Pompeii. There's an article about it with photos here if it interests you, but there's enough information in this info panel in the photo below as well.
Casts of what looks like two bodies, maybe three? Not sure these are the ones referred to above in the description.
This was the Great Exedra, a room used for banqueting.
An oven, also a part of the House of Sirico.
We then went to look at the theatre, the Odeon, which was the smaller of two theatres in this area. This would have been a roofed building originally.
The Quadriporticum originally served as a covered passage behind the theatre for spectators to use during intervals between shows. After the earthquake of 62AD its function changed and became the place where gladiators used to exercise in, and also contained barracks for them. This is a rare example of how Romans reused and repurposed buildings over time.
The Temple of Isis - one of the first discoveries during the excavation of Pompeii in 1764. This is actually the second structure as the original was damaged during the earthquake of 62AD.
House of the Wild Boar - currently closed so K took this picture through the locked gate. If you click on the photo you'll see the mosaic better. It looks more like a wolf than a boar really, although this animal does have tusks.
Palestra dei Iuvenes - a gymnasium for young men, but again closed and the photo of the mosaic in the entrance hall was taken through a gate.
And back on the main road coming towards the Forum area again. Overall we walked around a lot of the western side but really, considering the size of the town, we only saw a small amount of what there is to see! However after about 4 hours in the heat and humidity, we felt that was enough so called it a day mid afternoon.
And that, my friends, is the last of our photos of Pompeii, indeed the last of anything Roman for the rest of our trip! From your comments, it seems I'm not the only person who finds Roman history and culture fascinating. Thank you.
